Monday, November 1, 2010

October 31 – Halloween in Mississippi

It was two weeks ago when the subject of morning fog was explained in the BLOG. Would you believe that since that morning, the atmosphere has been so dry, the dew point so low, that morning fog has been a non issue? That is, until yesterday. More on the fog later; let’s start with some history/geography about the inland waterway that was built to provide an alternative route to the Gulf of Mexico.
First are some facts from Fred Myers’ book and lectures.  According to Fred, more dirt was moved building the Tenn-Tom than was moved for the Panama Canal. The Tenn-Tom actually connects, straightens, and gradually levels the Tombigbee and Black Warrior Rivers through Eastern Mississippi and Western Alabama en route to Mobile. Notable features are the 24 mile “Divide Cut”. This is a man made ditch that spans from mile 443.7 (Mississippi Highway 25) to Bay Spring Lake, just south of Miss. Highway 30, close to New Site, Mississippi.
Dams and locks have been strategically placed along the route to gradually lower the water from a normal elevation of 414 feet at Lake Pickwick down to sea level. The downstream locks and dams thus far have each reduced the water level in increments of between 24 to 30 feet. Unlike the locks and dams on the Tennessee, Tenn-Tom dams are all single purpose dams. That is their only function is to control water level for navigation. They do not generate power, nor do they control water levels to prevent downstream flooding.  There is little turbulence in each lock with lockdowns taking a short 10 minutes from the time the gates are closed until they are reopened.  Several of the locks have been within a few miles of one another. The lock masters are all friendly and do a great job of communicating with boaters and one another. We have generally stayed within a few miles of a lock at night. In the morning, the boats that are leaving coordinate departure times. Sometimes there is more than one starting time based on the number of boats leaving and the preference of the individual crews. In each group of boats, one captain takes responsibility for contacting the lock master prior to the planned departure time. In most cases the remaining locks have been waiting for us upon our arrival for the rest of the day.
Sleeping Bear left from the rendezvous at Joe Wheeler state park on Wednesday, 10/27 stopping at Aqua Marina, in Luka, Mississippi. This was a 65 mile day back down the Tennessee River, and a good place to stay for a night. Aqua Marina is about 1 mile south of Grand Harbor Marina on the Tenn-Tom, but the facilities are 20 years behind. Kona developed a case of Montezuma’s revenge on Thursday morning that have required several emergency after midnight walks. On the first night at Aqua, we saw a night watchman making his rounds. He pointed to a bush. He explained to me that he thought it was someone prowling the grounds. I am still not sure what that was all about.
On Thursday, we pushed forward through the divide cut and onto Midway Marine, in Fulton, Mississippi. We stayed an extra day to do some light maintenance and to re-provision.  We shopped at a Wal-Mart in Fulton. Looking at the quality and price of the meats and produce in that store versus what we have seen at other independent grocery stores along the way, it easy to see why Wal-Mart does so well in these areas. On the way back we stopped at a little no name BBQ restaurant. This was some of the best BBQ either of us had ever experienced.
Leaving on Saturday morning brings us back to the subject of morning fog. Three of the 4 boats on the transient dock at Midway had agreed the night before to leave together, sometime around 8AM. During my 2 AM stroll with Kona, it was obvious that there would be a fog delay. By 9 AM the fog at the marina had lifted nicely. We could see a fog bank toward the lock ahead, but the lock master said that it was clear downstream. The consensus on the dock was that the fog bank would probably lift before we arrived. It was further rationalized that we all had radar and could safely follow each other in a tight formation. Well, the fog bank did not lift. Furthermore, within the first few hundred yards, visibility had dropped to a few feet in front of the boat. The Californian Motor yacht ahead radioed back to Sleeping Bear. He thought he had drifted out of the channel. Looking at the 5 foot water depth, we agreed. It took both sets of eyes as well as radar and chart plotter to make our way through the fog bank, back into the channel and on to the lock. This was 15 minutes of stress in what has been a very relaxing trip down river thus far.
We are in Columbus, Mississippi. Al’s wife Kerri has a 3 connection flight from Wausau to Columbus. The courtesy car has been reserved for this evening to pick her up at the airport. For now, the only comment about the Tenn-Tom so far is, like every other River along the way, it is different. Like much of the Calumet and Illinois Rivers, there are sections with an unmistakable manmade characteristic to it. There have been very few homes and little industry thus far. There are still a lot of green as well as autumn colors to see so it has not been a boring ride. The narrower waterway requires a less day dreaming while at the helm as well. Marinas have been isolated from towns that have been small and fairly sleepy. Fulton had an architectural tour that featured several interesting, but rundown homes and other buildings.  Each of the 3 marinas has boaters who stopped during their travels and decided to stay. Other than a cheap slip, $172 per month plus tax and electric at Midway, reasons for staying do not seem readily apparent.  
Every day is an adventure. Let’s see what lies ahead. And for Halloween, we dressed up as boaters.
Sorry that I have not updated the loop locator. For some reason it is not allowing me to put in Tenn-Tom mileage markers as a waypoint.

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