A correction to a prior post is in order. The Missouri River does not flow into the Illinois above Grafton. This was the Mississippi joining the Illinois from one of several streams. The Missouri River flows into the Mississippi River about 22 miles south of Alton.
We left Alton Sunday morning at 9AM. It is about one mile from the Harbor to the Mel Price Lock and Dam. It is reported that 1/3 of the world’s grain supply travels through this lock.
This is the Mississippi, the Big Casino! While there was virtually no waiting when we arrived at the lock, this lock has two chambers, a small one on the Illinois side of the river and a much larger on the Missouri side. Of course, faced with two choices Sleeping Bear was the lead boat into the wrong chamber. The lock master informed us of this on the radio. We turned around allowing the 80 foot Palmer Johnson yacht “Captivator” to lead the way into the smaller chamber. The drop was only about a 6 feet. We were in and out in less than 10 minutes. As we left the lock, there was an up-bound tow waiting to enter the larger chamber.
Much of what we saw today reflected the larger scale of the Mississippi River. The first two locks were bigger. There were larger tows, with as many as 5 barges across. A tug pushing 20 or more barges is not uncommon. So far, the Mississippi is much wider than the Illinois and current is much stronger. Leaving Alton and the Mel Price Lock, we had the benefit of a 2mph current pushing us downriver. Approaching St. Louis, and the rest of the way to Kimmswick, the current has been running between 3 and 4 mph. The speed and force of the current create all kinds of eddies on the surface. The boat has reacted to movement in and on the water as if it is running or sitting in a light lake chop. Due to their size and force, the larger up bound tows can create 2+ foot waves as the barges plow into the strong current.
About 8 miles south of Alton, we came to a fork in the river. The Chart as well as the large sign on shore directed us to the left, into a narrow channel named the Chain of Rocks Channel. This Channel runs for about 10 miles. The entire time we were in the channel we were pushing against a current of about .5 mph. There is a Lock and Dam at the end of the channel that dropped the water level another 6 feet. Within a mile after leaving the lock, the Chain of Rocks Channel rejoins the Mississippi. As it does, the current gradually resumed pushing the boat at 1 to 2 mph. Over the next several miles the current swelled to between 3 and 4 mph. With the push from the current, Sleeping Bear raced by St. Louis at 12 mph. We managed to get a few good shots of St. Louis and of the famous St. Louis arch while passing.
The object for Sunday was Hoppies Marina in Kimmswick, Missouri. For the last 37 years Fern and Charlie Hopkins have run this marina. The cruising guide touts Fern’s knowledge of the river and indicates that the marina is a full service marina with all of the facilities, “everyone cruising south stops at Hoppies.” In reality it is a series of floating barges on Missouri bank of the Mississippi River. A picture of the dock is included with today's post. The facilities include one shower and a toilet in a trailer on the northern most barge. There is no break wall or other protection from the flow of the river. As barges pass, their wake creates a rocking motion that lasts for 2 to 3 minutes. Tied to the barge, as a large tow passes Sleeping Bear’s movement is similar to that of the Wanderer as first discovered by the Harvey family in the movie Captain Ron(1992.) This place definitely has character. It is part of the total experience. Fern is a chain smoker who seems to be knowledgeable regarding where to anchor and/or tie-up on the Mississippi as well as up the Ohio River into Kentucky Lake. She has offered to go through the charts between here and Kentucky Lake on Monday. This is the last place for us to tie up for the next 200 miles. Any tribal knowledge is welcome.
In the meantime we are here waiting for son Ed, who will join us Monday evening for the rest of the trip down the Mississippi, up the Ohio and into Kentucky Lake. More adventures ahead as we head south on Tuesday.
Sleeping Bear tied up at Hoppies Marina
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